| Yellow or weak flame after cleaning | The burner cap is not seated squarely, or the jet is blocked | Lift the cap and reseat it until it sits flat on its locating pins | Clean the jets and calibrate the air/gas mixture |
| The burner lights and dies when you release the knob | The thermocouple is not getting enough heat to hold the safety valve open | Hold the knob in 15–20 seconds after lighting, and clean the sensor tip while cold | Replace the thermocouple and set it 3–5 mm inside the flame |
| Ignition ticks and will not stop | Moisture or spills around the ignition switch, or a hairline crack in the electrode ceramic | Disconnect power, dry thoroughly around the burners and switches, leave it an hour | Replace the ignition switch, the cracked electrode, or the transformer |
| The knob spins freely without releasing gas | The gas valve has broken internally | Do not remove the valve yourself — it sits directly on the gas line | Replace the valve with a model-matched part and leak-test |
| A new cooker with a weak flame from day one | Jetted for cylinder gas while the home runs on natural gas | Confirm whether you are on natural gas or a cylinder | Fit the natural-gas jet set and re-set the air pressure |
| The pot sits crooked, flame licks up the sides | A cast-iron pan support refitted upside down after cleaning | Lift the support and set it the right way up — it has one correct face | Align the supports, calibrate the burner, replace any cracked support |
| The oven burner dies while the hob works | The oven's flame-failure sensor — completely separate from the hob sensors | Same held-knob test, but the sensor is inside the oven under the burner | Replace the oven sensor — different location, different route |
| The oven cuts out after 10 minutes | The thermocouple cools, the flue path is blocked, or (built-in) the over-temperature sensor trips | Make sure the flue outlet above the oven is not covered by a tray or foil | Measure the thermocouple in millivolts, clear the flue, check the cooling fan |
| Popping or continuous ticking | Ticking is electrical (moisture or cracked ceramic). Popping is thermal expansion, or a cap out of seat | Dry around the burners, and reseat the caps squarely | Replace the ignition switch or electrode, calibrate the burner, align the supports |
| A built-in hob burner dies on its own | That burner's safety sensor is fouled with dried cooking spills | Clean around the sensor and burner while cold | Clean or replace the sensor — we never disable the safety |